Café Lago’s Lasagna
And a quick stop at Oxbow for a loaf.
The lasagna is a fickle friend. Getting the ratios right, and having pasta layers thin enough not to overwhelm the palate… It’s a difficult balancing act, one that Café Lago has developed a reputation for mastering.
Located in Seattle’s Montlake neighborhood, the Italian spot has been around since 1990, so they’re clearly doing something right. And, to jump straight to the conclusion, the lasagna is a mainstay for a reason. The Seattle P-I reported on the dish way back in 2004, and even included the (intricate) recipe. It’s a lasagna that has stuck with locals.
What sets it apart? It’s a combination of things, certainly, but the pasta truly sits at the core. The plates are thin, with an ever-so-gentle bite to them – no mush, just flavorful separators.
That aside, the lasagna has a minimalist touch to it. Ricotta, béchamel, and tomato sauce – parmesan for an extra zing. It’s as simple as it’s complex, as evidenced by the tomato sauce. Zesty, with a garlic kick that is mellowed out by an olive oil base. A chef’s kiss balance.
Thirty-five years. That’s how long this lasagna has stayed relevant on a menu that, in general, deserves a deep dive investigation. The pizzas are particularly impressive, and every Monday, people line up out the door to get a table for the $15 specials. But, at least if it’s your first visit, you should incorporate the lasagna into your meal.
Frankly, I don’t think I ever have waxed poetically about lasagna, but here we are. I have no qualms. To me, Café Lago is top of the heap as far as Italian food in Seattle goes, and that’s a sword I’m willing to fall on.
Find Café Lago at 2305 24th Ave E and on the web.
Meanwhile, Next Door at Oxbow Market
Oxbow Market is, for all intents and purposes, Sea Wolf Bakery’s clandestine outpost. That is, it is Sea Wolf, just under a different name, which means the OG’s loaves are there, and that’s important. The bread is excellent. Their pizza – sold by the slice – is solid, too, and I have no complaints about their bagels. (Bagel newsletter, It’s a Shanda, doesn’t quite share my enthusiasm, so do your own research.)
Either way, go for the bread and stay for the scones. Not too dry, not too moist, and perfectly berry-forward if that’s the flavor profile you’re looking for. It wouldn’t be a loser in the great scone war…
Check ‘em out at 2307 24th Ave E and on the web.